Air Jordan 4: How The Sneaker Became a Cultural Phenomenon

While Mars Blackmon worked the small screen, Lee put Jordans on the silver screen in most of his early film work. His first flick, 1986’s She’s Gotta Have It, opened Wieden+Kennedy’s eyes to Mars’ love of Js. The director’s 1989 opus, Do the Right Thing, upped the ante, with more Nike footwear featured in the movie. Models like the Air Trainer III, Trainer SC, Air Revolution,  Cortez, and more popped up on characters’ feet throughout the film. But no shoe plays a more pivotal role than the “White/Cement” Jordan IVs worn by the character Buggin’ Out. In one of the movie’s key scenes, a neighborhood transplant wearing a Larry Bird T-shirt and carrying a bicycle manages to scuff Buggin’ Out’s new shoes, much to his disgust and that of everybody on the block. The ensuing argument mixes exaggerated reactions that provide humor, social commentary on gentrification, and a brief statement on sneaker etiquette. Jordan Brand recognized the moment with a friends-and-family release in 2017 that included an appropriately scuffed replica complete with green, yellow, and red lace details, plus a toothbrush, the same tool the movie character used in attempts to resurrect his pair.

All the folklore attached to the model keeps collaborators coming back to it when given the chance to work with Jordan Brand. In one of their smarter moves, the company’s taken a judicious approach in selecting partners allowed to use the model. Los Angeles-based boutique Undefeated received the honor of becoming the first-ever third party to collaborate on any Jordan in 2005. They picked the Jordan IV, and the military-inspired colorway still commands prices in the $20K range. Rap legend Eminem earned two friends-and-family editions—the “Encore” and a collaboration with Carhartt, released in 2005 and 2017, respectively—that hover around the same price range.

But the love for Jordan IVs isn’t limited to high-profile people and their inner circles. The appreciation extends to pairs that saw wider releases: from Kaws’ collabs from 2017 to Travis Scott’s Cactus Jack colorway, as an ode to Houston, to Levi’s denim takes to general releases by  Toro Bravo, Cool Grey, Oreos, Military Blue, and more. Jordans play a role in the early collecting habits of sneaker enthusiasts. Even with 30-plus signature models in the line, the Air Jordan IV lands in the top five in the eyes of many. As Hatfield puts it, “Some people say the IV is their favorite shoe. It’s a little bit more, what I like to call, utilitarian, but still with a Jordan mystique.”